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So Mr.41 has been really talking up the idea of getting a camper & I want to jump on this before he changes his mind!

He seems to be dead set on a pop up as our "starter" camper, and I'm fine with that because we truly can't afford anything else.

Well... to be REALLY honest, we can't even afford THAT. :laugh:

Also- I drive a Honda Odyssey so we have to be able to tow it with that because I don't see a truck in our near future..

 

Anyway... I want one with a toilet & AC and those are my only prerequisites.  My brother had his own RV biz, and built & sold them & I'm sure he'll be filling my head with info & advice- but I want to hear from the fiends too!!  (I haven't talked to him yet- he's in fla & I'm in PA)

 

Is there a camper shopping site I should look at?

 

I'm sure I'll have more questions as I get deeper into this...

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One of the most confusing areas for anyone considering a new pop-up is the aspect of "what can I tow, and which hitch should I purchase?".  Before you go any further, get your vehicle owners manual, a

Well, if thinking used:   Purchasing a Used Pop-Up-Camper   Pricing for specific makes and models are different for different areas of the country One good source for pricing information is the NADA G

let me just say, I experienced a few sudden stop situations towing home from disney on sat. I had several drivers cut me off, one try to merge on top of me, cars screeching to a halt for an accident

I towed a pup with an Odyssey many moons ago and it did a fine job.  Just be sure you have all the necessary tow package components, which for an Odyssey probably includes a Transmission Fluid Cooler, Power Steering Fluid Cooler, and if I remember right some mods to direct air flow to the coolers.  And of course the right hitch, wiring and a brake controller.  Also, like LoneStar said, know your weights and make sure you shop for a pup that is under them taking into consideration all the stuff you'll pack plus the weight of family members in the van.  One big limitation of minivans is the GVWR of the van when you add in the tongue weight of the trailer plus occupants and contents in the van. 

 

Regarding pups themselves, ours was a Coleman back 12 years ago and we had great luck with it.  But if you're buying a more recent one I can't offer advice.  There are, however, many on here that have pups currently and can give brand advice on what to look for. 

 

Good luck!

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Check out Fretz RV in Souderton. Also close to you is Tom Schaeffer's in Hamburg. I have purchased from both and they are very good, good service departments and will not try to rip you off. Schaeffer's may have some light weight trailers that are hard side and designed to be pulled by a small TV. Not sure about Fretz, but I know Fretz usually has a few popups in their inventory. You can check out their inventories online.

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First just check all the tow ratings for your vehicle and make sure you stay under them. The rest is up to you and what you like.

 

I was just about to do this...

 

 There are, however, many on here that have pups currently and can give brand advice on what to look for. 

 

Good luck!

 

Thanks!  I just discovered some glorious thing called "expandable".

I had no idea such things existed. haha.. My Odyssey is new ('13) but I have no idea about the specs- gonna get the book out this afternoon.

 

I could be wrong, but I think most PUPs with bathrooms are big ones. I'm not sure you could town one with a van. Someone with more expertise will jump in though, I'm sure.

 

Thanks!  This is almost as overwhelming as planning a Disney trip.   :)

 

I don't need a "bathroom" per se- but a toilet would be nice.. I can deal with an outside shower.  

I grew up camping in a '68(?) Gem slide-in with 5 people, so size isn't really an issue. :laugh:

 

Here she is- in her less than glory days.....  Oh the memories!!!

 

9846ab20-304d-43b0-b6c0-a5e8ffa37732_zps

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OH MY GOSH!!  I just found this photo of the Gem before her final voyage!!  

My brother and me, before taking her to Farm Aid 7 years ago!  

Sadly, she took some water damage in Hurricane Charlie a couple years before this, and after this trip we determined she was no longer road safe. :(

So she sits in my brother's back yard.  He has every intention on fixer her up, but I'll believe it when I see it.

 

IMG_5753.jpg

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One of the most confusing areas for anyone considering a new pop-up is the aspect of "what can I tow, and which hitch should I purchase?".  Before you go any further, get your vehicle owners manual, and determine what your limits are.  Easier said than done!  As towing capacities of vehicles are based on several factors including the vehicle frame type (unibody or frame), engine, transmission, rear end gear ratio, tires/load range, engine cooling capacity, transmission cooling capacity, alternator capacity as well as several other things.  Woe is the camper who went out and purchased a pop-up without reviewing what their tow vehicle weight ratings were.  The deal you find on a pop-up can quickly fade when you find out you need a new tow vehicle to move it!

 

Check with your manufacturer to see if they have a separate towing manual.  Many do not include all towing information in the standard manual.  It will probably take less than an hour, but with the manual and probably a few trips to the car/truck to read equipment stickers you will be able to determine the ratings for your vehicle.

 

Next, was your vehicle equipped with a factory tow package?  What is included in a tow package differs between manufacturers, but many include: heavy-duty brakes, heavy duty suspension, higher capacity engine cooling, an auxiliary transmission fluid cooler, a larger battery, a higher output alternator and a full-size spare tire.

Trailer hitches utilized for pop-up campers generally come in two different styles, Weight Carrying (WC) and Weight Distribution (WD).  The type of hitch purchased for you particular situation will depend on several factors including

 

1. The tow vehicle and its towing capacities

2. The trailer being towed

3. Vehicle manufacturer specifications.  On certain vehicles, they will provide 2 sets of specifications, 1 for a WC hitch, and 1 for a WD.  Read your owners manual carefully The "fine print" note(s) about trailering may indicate using a weight distributing (WD) hitch for trailers weights above a certain weight (like1,000 lbs.), and it may  require WD for trailer weights above a second threshold (like 2,000 lbs).

 

Do NOT assume the person trying to sell you a pop-up will know the limitations of your vehicle.  Remember what their job is in this situation! It's to separate you from your money.

 

Remember, your vehicle braking system is designed to stop the vehicle itself!  When towing you are adding a substantial weight (mass) to the rear of your vehicle which also must be stopped.  If your manufacturer has an option for brakes (electric or surge) if  at all possible they should be included in your camper purchase.

 

All of the ratings and specifications are important in their own way.  You do not want to exceed any of them!

 

If you change any vehicle equipment (like new tires) your ratings can change. Always review equipment/tire purchases with an eye toward how it will affect you tow ratings.

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One of the most confusing areas for anyone considering a new pop-up is the aspect of "what can I tow, and which hitch should I purchase?". Before you go any further, get your vehicle owners manual, and determine what your limits are. Easier said than done! As towing capacities of vehicles are based on several factors including the vehicle frame type (unibody or frame), engine, transmission, rear end gear ratio, tires/load range, engine cooling capacity, transmission cooling capacity, alternator capacity as well as several other things. Woe is the camper who went out and purchased a pop-up without reviewing what their tow vehicle weight ratings were. The deal you find on a pop-up can quickly fade when you find out you need a new tow vehicle to move it!

Check with your manufacturer to see if they have a separate towing manual. Many do not include all towing information in the standard manual. It will probably take less than an hour, but with the manual and probably a few trips to the car/truck to read equipment stickers you will be able to determine the ratings for your vehicle.

Next, was your vehicle equipped with a factory tow package? What is included in a tow package differs between manufacturers, but many include: heavy-duty brakes, heavy duty suspension, higher capacity engine cooling, an auxiliary transmission fluid cooler, a larger battery, a higher output alternator and a full-size spare tire.

Trailer hitches utilized for pop-up campers generally come in two different styles, Weight Carrying (WC) and Weight Distribution (WD). The type of hitch purchased for you particular situation will depend on several factors including

1. The tow vehicle and its towing capacities

2. The trailer being towed

3. Vehicle manufacturer specifications. On certain vehicles, they will provide 2 sets of specifications, 1 for a WC hitch, and 1 for a WD. Read your owners manual carefully The "fine print" note(s) about trailering may indicate using a weight distributing (WD) hitch for trailers weights above a certain weight (like1,000 lbs.), and it may require WD for trailer weights above a second threshold (like 2,000 lbs).

Do NOT assume the person trying to sell you a pop-up will know the limitations of your vehicle. Remember what their job is in this situation! It's to separate you from your money.

Remember, your vehicle braking system is designed to stop the vehicle itself! When towing you are adding a substantial weight (mass) to the rear of your vehicle which also must be stopped. If your manufacturer has an option for brakes (electric or surge) if at all possible they should be included in your camper purchase.

All of the ratings and specifications are important in their own way. You do not want to exceed any of them!

If you change any vehicle equipment (like new tires) your ratings can change. Always review equipment/tire purchases with an eye toward how it will affect you tow ratings.

X1000

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We have some good friends that tow a nice size pup, with toilet and a/c and they tow with an Odyssey.  It is one of the Jayco's, don't recall which exactly.  It has worked out really well for them and their 3 little girls.  So I am absolutely confident that you will find something that works for your vehicles tow capacity.  Do the suggested research and enjoy shopping!  We loooooove going to the rv shows and I'm pretty sure we have been to every dealer in our area and some in Austin (we live in San Antonio).  Enjoy the hunt!

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Most toilets in a pop up are cassette toilets.  Most people that have them never use them.  Are you looking new or used?  I didn't see that you mentioned that.  Weights of a pop up can get high quick.  All of mine are over 3000 pounds.  The most recent having a GVW of 3500 pounds.  Anything over 1000 pounds you would do well to have brakes on.  (which is almost all of them)  If buying used, there are a lot of things to look at...flooring, canvas, appliances, even a rusty frame.  That's just the start.  Bad news is...new pop ups are now made so cheap that you may not like the quality on those either.  (I know)  They do single stitches on the walls, cheap wood that screws constantly fall out of, things that should be made of metal that are plastic...I could go on.  It's fun keeping them up.  Don't mean to scare you but if you have kids, things happen.  Take your time looking and be sure of the values.  New ones can be had as much as 35% off MSRP.

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 Enjoy the hunt!

 

:thank-you-smiley3:

 

 New ones can be had as much as 35% off MSRP.

 

This is good to know! Is there a "better" time than another to shop for a camper?  I assume a lot of sales happen in winter?

I guess it's a double edge sword as far as used/new? They both have issues!  Thinking budget friendly, I think I'd like a used one.  

Then again- a used one may require work I wasn't expecting so....

 

I may have to have my brother come up for a visit to go shopping with me!

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Also look into previous year models that never sold. That is how we got our TT for about $10,000 off the price of a new year model. We were shopping in 2007 and bought a 2006 model.

Every new trailer I have bought was a leftover. The last one I saved over 13000 on.

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I guess it's a double edge sword as far as used/new? They both have issues!  Thinking budget friendly, I think I'd like a used one.  

Then again- a used one may require work I wasn't expecting so....

Well, if thinking used:

 

Purchasing a Used Pop-Up-Camper

 

Pricing for specific makes and models are different for different areas of the country One good source for pricing information is the NADA Guides.

As to the rest, just make sure that you go through the camper, part by part.  You should set it up and take it down whole drill - from start to finish with the owner BUT make sure that you do it with them.

  1. Inspect roof for any damage or abrasions
  2. Check latches and seal for proper seating (recheck this when you close it back)
  3. Make sure the lift system is in order and works correctly - let them show you how it cranks and you do it to see how it feels and works.
  4. That the door works and sets correctly
  5. The bunks and slide out pull out smoothly and watch how it sets up and poles to bunks set-up and attach.
  6. Have them show you how to set-up the awning as well
  7. Let them show you how to turn on and off the propane and look at the hoses making sure that they look in good shape. (You may find this easier to do before pulling out the bunks)
  8. Once the stabilizers are down, go inside, have them set-up the galley and have them hook-up to water (if possible) and check the sink, look under sink for visible leaks and inspect the hoses - bring a flashlight for this.
  9. Have him run the stove and refrigerator (on gas you should be able to feel that the inside of fridge is cooling off)
  10. Look inside for any visible signs of patching on canvas material, test all zippers, flip cushions to look for tears, rips or faulty zippers. Check curtains for water spots and rips. Look up at roof interior for any signs of water marks or damage.
  11. Open drawers and cabinets for any sign of runner/latch problems and observe storage space needs for your family
  12. Run all interior lights and A/C and ceiling vents
  13. Have them light the furnace and show you how it works as well as the hot water heater.
  14. Check around the shower floor for leaks and have them show you how the cassette toilet works as well as the shower and its set-up
  15. Walk the whole floor checking for soft spots (wood rot).
  16. Have them show you how to hook-up and run the outside stove (if applicable)
  17. Have them show you where the fresh water holding tank is and the water pump.
  18. Have them show you where the fuses are located.

If all is in order, go back outside and have them show you all the outside utility hook-ups and electric cord and the battery set-up.

Walk out the whole exterior for signs of side wall damage or any visible damage to the canvas/vinyl or how it attaches to camper. 

Then slowly start the process for closing the camper and watch them as you help them close the camper. Make sure that it closes smoothly, and that the top is tight to the body and latches without too much effort.

Assuming that you have a hitch for your tow vehicle - attach it to your camper and test the lights and turn signals. 

If you have grease pencil, mark where the bottom of the tire is (on the sidewall)  Pull forward and look at the tires all the way around for any signs of irregular wear or problems.  Ask them how long the camper has been sitting.  Tires that are exposed to the sun (UV rays) begin to break down quickly and become dangerous.  Be wary of the spot you marked where the tire contacted the ground and look for any signs of a "flat spot".  If in doubt about the tires, assume you will need to replace them and adjust your price accordingly.

Have them show you the manual and all paperwork for the appliances so if you do decide to purchase you will know up front if they have the information on the camper.

Inquire if they have made any warranty repairs or if they have ever had the wheel bearings repacked.  The bearings should be repacked once a year and you may need to have it done immediately upon purchase based on the age of the camper.

 

OK, I admit I'm copying off my web site

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I could be wrong, but I think most PUPs with bathrooms are big ones. I'm not sure you could town one with a van. Someone with more expertise will jump in though, I'm sure.

Our son tows a JAYCO 17 ft Hybrid with their Odyssey with no problems.

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ok to expand on the what can I tow issue, here are a couple of thoughts. first and foremost, the majority of rv salesmen will try to convince you that odyssey could tow a 35 ft travel trailer if they thought they could make the sale. Do not ever believe the salesman when he says "yes you can tow that". ANd sadly, I'm far from the only person that fell for the weight run around. The biggest way they do this is by showing you dry/unloaded brochure weights. Throw those numbers out the window. You will never tow a dry or unloaded pup. you will put things in it or on it (ie dishes, linens, maybe some bikes, whatever). These things really do add up and add weight. The dry weight doesn't include batteries or propane either. You are better off shopping by gvwr of the pup. The same thing goes for tongue weight. The tongue (hitch) weight increases as the pup gets loaded. anything placed in front of the wheels adds tongue weight, behind the wheels off loads the tongue. Too much weight in the rear and not enough weight in the front can and will cause a sway condition. I'm not sure of the optimal tongue weight percentage in a pup. I know for a TT it is 13-15% of loaded TT weight, a 5er has a pin weight of 20-25% of loaded weight. I never had a pup so I need someone with more knowledge to step in there.

now to your odyssey. To figure out what you can tow, you do need to understand that anything you put in or on a vehicle decreases its payload. Tongue weight must be included in that payload as it puts weight on the vehicle. Once you look through your owners manuals and verify that your odyssey is equipped to tow (or you ave equipped it with after market transmission cooler, trailer brake etc) and you ave learned the Odysseys gvwr, gcwr and what it's receiver is rated for, you need to load the odyssey up with all people, pets, and gear that will be in the odyssey when towing plus a full tank of fuel and go weigh it. you can weigh it at a www.catscale.com take the scaled weight and subtract it from the Odysseys gcwr to get an adjusted towing capacity. take the scaled weight and subtract it from the Odysseys gvwr to get your available payload. The loadec weight of pup (can substitute gvwr here) must be less than the adjusted towing capacity. The loaded tongue weight must be less than your available payload and less than the hitch weight and/or receiver weight limits. Check to see if the odyssey is ok to use a weight distribution hitch. If yes, identify at what tongue weight you need a wdh. Hope I haven't totally confused you.

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