So many of you know that I have a terrible track record with trip reports.  I didn't plan to even write one this trip for that reason, plus a few others.   The biggest reason was that I promised myself I wouldn't spend this trip looking at everything through a camera/phone lens.  Heck, I still haven't posted the 1200 photos I took last year!   Plus this year I really REALLY needed a vacation.  Really.  Like, a lot. Work was supercrazy this year leading up to what my bosses call "my annual sabbat