Heating a Class A

[mouseketab.....Carol 1,261]

I DO have a Heatpump in my camper. It's called a CoolCat.  Awesome air conditioner (9,000 BTU for 70 CF of space, you can hang meat in there!!!). However, the heat pump does work, but only down to about 40, then it can't turn AC into heat.  

 

So I do use a little heater for mine and I stay toasty when the temps drop below 40.

[ftwildernessrick 10]

Have not been on the boards in a while, but this is what I did last year. My wife and I retired for a while and did a lot of traveling, including staying at the Fort last year from the first of October through the first week of January. We normally use electric heaters unless it gets really cold and then the furnace cuts on. So the first thing I did was buy an extend a stay system so I could use the smaller propane bottles and get them refilled. You can even leave them at the meadow trading post and they will be picked up and filled. The next problem I worked on was an electrical one. As we probably are all well aware, almost all rv's are woefully underpowered for electrical outlets inside. Most have about a total of 3 circuits to cover the interior outlets. So when you start running electric heaters, you will begin to trip breakers, especially when you turn on the coffee pot, a hair drier, etc, along with the heater. Even my motor home with a 50 amp service had the same problem. I decided to make my RV more efficient by doing a few things so I would not have to rely on propane. Fortunately, my hot water heater is the electric/gas type, so I could just leave it on electric.

Next, a friend of mine, who is an electrician, and I looked at the breaker box, saw there were several spaces available for additional circuits. We next ran 4 additional circuits to individual outlets we installed. This was not as hard as it sounds, since most of the wiring is run underneath cabinets, drawers, etc. we ran one up to the front of the motor home to power my electric fireplace heater, 2 to the kitchen area, one for another heater and one to power an electric cooktop, then one in the bedroom for another heater. Next I made a counter top cover for my gas stove/oven, that I can lift off if need be. I then bought two of those induction cook tops you see advertised on TV and put them on the removeable counter top. One runs off the new circuit and the other runs off an existing one. I next removed the small microwave that was mounted over the stove along with that cabinetry. I then installed a large micro-convection oven and replaced the old larger cabinet with a smaller one I built that slides out. The microwave was already on its own dedicated circuit, so there was enough power to run the new one.

The end was result was a system that no longer blows breakers, with enough heat being generated to keep it warm in 20 degree weather, and I have not even turned my propane on in a year and a half.

[arthuruscg 34]

Also, most AC units can have a heat strip added.

[Timsmith7 36]

I never heard of the heat strips. I looked them up and they are priced reasonable. I may investigate that option closer, thanks.

[Classact....Mike 17]

Heat strips will work to knock the chill off, but not a lot more. If temps get down to 40's or less, you'll prefer to use furnace or other heat, as the air moving from the heat strips (through the AC ducts) may feel a bit chilly.    We use an oil filled electric heater for most of our heat, with the furnace set to come on if it's get's cooler.

[arthuruscg 34]

If you have a heat pump at home, the air comeing out of the ducts will feel about the same.