WDH Question

[rtguy007 74]

So I have figured out how to adjust the equal-i-zer hitch to specs for the new truck but had some questions for those of you out there who may have some experience with this. I used the shank sizer on the equal-i-zer website and it says they don't make something for my combination (3 inch ball, 25" to top of receiver, 19" coupler height). If I adjust the coupler up or down 1 inch (or the receiver measurement), it tells me I need a 9" drop to accommodate my setup. I went ahead and bit the bullet and ordered the 9" drop shank that they make for my truck (how bad off could 1" be on the tongue right :D).

 

I got my shank in and took it up to the most level parking lot I could find (which was our local school) and re-setup my hitch per the instructions. Unloaded I got a measurement of 40.5" on the front wheel well (referred to as WW from here on out) and 43 on the rear. I then loaded up the truck without the bars and got 40.75" front WW and 41.25" on the rear WW. With the bars, on, it adjusted to 40.25" on the front and 42 in the rear (over adjusted using the stock settings of 5 washers and L brackets in the middle with the shank in its lowest position). The bars were not level and sloping downward towards the hitch. Instead of removing a washer, I lowered the L brackets 1 hole and remeasured. The new measurements were 40.5" front WW and 41.75 rear WW. The front was dead on the original measurement and the rear was only off by 1.25". At this point the bars were more level but still leaning towards the front slightly (as recommended by the manual and equal-i-zer).

 

Remember that shank issue where it was 1" off from being able to use the lowest drop shank equal-i-zer makes? Well I went back and took some measurements (since the coupler height should be as close to the original measurement of 19" or slightly lower). The coupler height was at 19" (the original height).

 

Here is what the trailer looks like hooked up.

 

 

Does everything look ok to you guys? I was a little nervous about the trailer tongue being higher than the rear but I don't see that unless I am blind. I had my camera tilted a little when i took this so it looks like it is sloping downward toward the truck.

 

On a side note, I am going to have to redo the entire thing. Found out when I got home from adjusting it that my WDH is rated at 1000lbs tongue weight and the trailer dry is at 850 (add 2 batteries and 2 full propane tanks and I am over that without anything else). I just ordered the 14k equal-i-zer and it should be here within a week (thanks to an online vendor in texas for having it for $480 instead of close to the list price of $830).

[Grumpy and Grandma 739]

It's been "YEARS" since I've used a WDH, but I always thought that both front and rear should go down by the same amount.  If the rear goes down 1" the front should go down 1".... However the best way to check is to weigh the axles with the TT hooked up, a CAT scale will give you front and rear axle weights. Weigh the truck without the trailer and then go back to the same scale with the trailer hooked up. You should see an increase in weight on the front axle. If the front is the same then you haven't distributed the weight across the frame.

[rtguy007 74]

It's been "YEARS" since I've used a WDH, but I always thought that both front and rear should go down by the same amount.  If the rear goes down 1" the front should go down 1".... However the best way to check is to weigh the axles with the TT hooked up, a CAT scale will give you front and rear axle weights. Weigh the truck without the trailer and then go back to the same scale with the trailer hooked up. You should see an increase in weight on the front axle. If the front is the same then you haven't distributed the weight across the frame.

 

I have read this as well but it contradicts what the installation manual shows. The closest CAT scale to me is about 70 miles away so it will be hard to make that trip to get things setup correctly.

 

The install manual shows this:

 

You have most likely achieved good weight distribution adjustment if your measurement on Line C of the weight distribution setup table shows that front wheel well measurement is at least halfway back to the original uncoupled measurement. See Line C on Weight Distribution Setup Table (p. 16) and Figure 19 below. It should never be lower than Line A.

 

Line A is the stock height of the front wheel well without anything hitched up. Line C is the difference between stock height and the TT connected without the bars (which is line . If I were to take out a single washer or drop the L bracket down one more hole, there is little to no pressure on the L brackets. At that point, there is no need for the WDH because it isn't doing anything. At least this model WDH on my truck.

 

Here is what is says about over adjustment on the front wheel.

 

If C is LOWER than A, you need LESS weight distribution adjustment. See Line C on Weight Distribution Setup Table, Figure 14.

[keith_h 420]

When I was setting my Equal-i-zer up I called the company to go over the numbers I had. According to them the critical measurement is the front end one and you want to get it as close to stock without overloading it (i.e. not lower than the original measurement). They said redistributing the weight will raise the back end some but it will rarely if ever get back to the unhitched height. What are the numbers you are coming up with for A and C? 

 

I've call the Equal-i-zer folks a couple of times since we bought the hitch with questions and they have been very helpful each time. 

[rtguy007 74]

When I was setting my Equal-i-zer up I called the company to go over the numbers I had. According to them the critical measurement is the front end one and you want to get it as close to stock without overloading it (i.e. not lower than the original measurement). They said redistributing the weight will raise the back end some but it will rarely if ever get back to the unhitched height. What are the numbers you are coming up with for A and C?

I've call the Equal-i-zer folks a couple of times since we bought the hitch with questions and they have been very helpful each time.

A was 40.5, B was 40.75, and C is 40.5 on final measurements for the front after dropping the L bracket. Rear was 43, 41.25, 41.75.

If I left it at install manual default settings it was 40.5, 40.75, 40.25 for the front and 43, 41.25, 42 on the rear.

Adjusted setup i am at now is 9 inch drop shank installed on the lowest setting. 5 washers and L brackets down 1.

[keith_h 420]

I'll have to pull out my manual but as I recall the normal procedure from default is to remove washers to raise the front end (i.e. transfer less weight to the front) or add washers to lower (i.e. transfer more weight to the front). If this doesn't do it, assuming all of the shank stuff was handled up front, then they said to adjust brackets.

 

Your final measurements aren't transferring much load as you suspect. I'm not sure how effective their sway control is with minimal bar loads. At this point I think your best bet is to contact the manufacturer to see what they have to say. They are in Utah so are a couple of hours behind us.

[rtguy007 74]

I will do that next week. I suspect, like most companies, that they are closed tomorrow. You are right with what the manual says. My issue is that loaded vs unloaded is minimal. A 1 washer adjustment either removes to much or adds to much.

I ended up ordering a 14k setup because I am over the tongue limit on the 10k I have now (what I get for trusting the dealer to give me the right hitch. At least it was free).

Once it comes in, I am sure all of this will change and it will adjust differently. I know how it sits now there is weight on the brackets. Just not sure how much. I can hear it working back there (it's noisy) so I know it is doing something.

[keith_h 420]

Just thought of something. When you were doing the setup did you have your normal load in the pickup bed? Behind the rear axle in particular. This load gets added to the tongue weight and will make a difference in the setup if it weighs enough.

[rtguy007 74]

I didnt have any additional load in the bed. This isn't much different than normal. Usually the only thing on the bed are 3 bikes and a few small pieces of 2x12 for leveling. At most we are looking at 100 puns and that weight is in front of and not behind of the axle. The trailer was pretty much loaded as it normally would be.

[rtguy007 74]

Also, I am reading that equalizer and many other brand hitches are now adjusting their installation requirements which explains why some people are saying adjust so both drop the same level and others say return the front to at least 50% between hitched w/o wd bars or as close to stock as possible. Apparently it has something for to do with the newer SAE standards.