rtguy007

If you really want, I can buy and ship to you.

Thanks for the offer but my funds are currently depleated. With the new truck, I have a few expenses that sucked me dry (new hitch, line x liner, side steps, expensive dinner to keep the wife happy, etc). Do you happen to know the sizes of the 3 prints?

I will do that next week. I suspect, like most companies, that they are closed tomorrow. You are right with what the manual says. My issue is that loaded vs unloaded is minimal. A 1 washer adjustment either removes to much or adds to much.

I ended up ordering a 14k setup because I am over the tongue limit on the 10k I have now (what I get for trusting the dealer to give me the right hitch. At least it was free).

Once it comes in, I am sure all of this will change and it will adjust differently. I know how it sits now there is weight on the brackets. Just not sure how much. I can hear it working back there (it's noisy) so I know it is doing something.

When I was setting my Equal-i-zer up I called the company to go over the numbers I had. According to them the critical measurement is the front end one and you want to get it as close to stock without overloading it (i.e. not lower than the original measurement). They said redistributing the weight will raise the back end some but it will rarely if ever get back to the unhitched height. What are the numbers you are coming up with for A and C?

I've call the Equal-i-zer folks a couple of times since we bought the hitch with questions and they have been very helpful each time.

A was 40.5, B was 40.75, and C is 40.5 on final measurements for the front after dropping the L bracket. Rear was 43, 41.25, 41.75.

If I left it at install manual default settings it was 40.5, 40.75, 40.25 for the front and 43, 41.25, 42 on the rear.

Adjusted setup i am at now is 9 inch drop shank installed on the lowest setting. 5 washers and L brackets down 1.

Wish I could swing the cost of a propride. I am still using an equal-i-zer but found out the idiots who sold me the camper spec's out the wrong one so I am overloaded and need to upgrade. Probably going to get the 14k version.

 

Yeah... crazy thing is, we only invested in the ProPride because our current TV has a such a short wheelbase.  I think there are other hitches out there that (with a strong TV) would work just fine.  Had we known that we were going to end up buying a different TV, we would have bought a different hitch and (even though I LOVE my new camper) a different camper... an older, cheaper, one.  We purchased new as the newer ones are lighter than even just a few years ago, and we were trying to keep our weight down.  If we only knew then...right? :)    Oh well, we do really like both the camper and the hitch so, moving forward :)

Same boat over here. My wife keeps telling me if I go to a class a we are getting divorced. I asked what she would do if I got a class c and she got pretty steamed.

It's been "YEARS" since I've used a WDH, but I always thought that both front and rear should go down by the same amount.  If the rear goes down 1" the front should go down 1".... However the best way to check is to weigh the axles with the TT hooked up, a CAT scale will give you front and rear axle weights. Weigh the truck without the trailer and then go back to the same scale with the trailer hooked up. You should see an increase in weight on the front axle. If the front is the same then you haven't distributed the weight across the frame.

I have read this as well but it contradicts what the installation manual shows. The closest CAT scale to me is about 70 miles away so it will be hard to make that trip to get things setup correctly.

The install manual shows this:

You have most likely achieved good weight distribution adjustment if your measurement on Line C of the weight distribution setup table shows that front wheel well measurement is at least halfway back to the original uncoupled measurement. See Line C on Weight Distribution Setup Table (p. 16) and Figure 19 below. It should never be lower than Line A.

Line A is the stock height of the front wheel well without anything hitched up. Line C is the difference between stock height and the TT connected without the bars (which is line . If I were to take out a single washer or drop the L bracket down one more hole, there is little to no pressure on the L brackets. At that point, there is no need for the WDH because it isn't doing anything. At least this model WDH on my truck.

Here is what is says about over adjustment on the front wheel.

If C is LOWER than A, you need LESS weight distribution adjustment. See Line C on Weight Distribution Setup Table, Figure 14.

Hey if you have time you may want to check this out. There isn't much of a difference between the 2013 and 2015. They mention some times in there somewhere in compared to either chevy or ford (dont remember which one). May give you an idea on heavy uphill with a ram 2500.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMhAM4dBgnQ

So I have figured out how to adjust the equal-i-zer hitch to specs for the new truck but had some questions for those of you out there who may have some experience with this. I used the shank sizer on the equal-i-zer website and it says they don't make something for my combination (3 inch ball, 25" to top of receiver, 19" coupler height). If I adjust the coupler up or down 1 inch (or the receiver measurement), it tells me I need a 9" drop to accommodate my setup. I went ahead and bit the bullet and ordered the 9" drop shank that they make for my truck (how bad off could 1" be on the tongue right :D).

I got my shank in and took it up to the most level parking lot I could find (which was our local school) and re-setup my hitch per the instructions. Unloaded I got a measurement of 40.5" on the front wheel well (referred to as WW from here on out) and 43 on the rear. I then loaded up the truck without the bars and got 40.75" front WW and 41.25" on the rear WW. With the bars, on, it adjusted to 40.25" on the front and 42 in the rear (over adjusted using the stock settings of 5 washers and L brackets in the middle with the shank in its lowest position). The bars were not level and sloping downward towards the hitch. Instead of removing a washer, I lowered the L brackets 1 hole and remeasured. The new measurements were 40.5" front WW and 41.75 rear WW. The front was dead on the original measurement and the rear was only off by 1.25". At this point the bars were more level but still leaning towards the front slightly (as recommended by the manual and equal-i-zer).

Remember that shank issue where it was 1" off from being able to use the lowest drop shank equal-i-zer makes? Well I went back and took some measurements (since the coupler height should be as close to the original measurement of 19" or slightly lower). The coupler height was at 19" (the original height).

Here is what the trailer looks like hooked up.

Does everything look ok to you guys? I was a little nervous about the trailer tongue being higher than the rear but I don't see that unless I am blind. I had my camera tilted a little when i took this so it looks like it is sloping downward toward the truck.

On a side note, I am going to have to redo the entire thing. Found out when I got home from adjusting it that my WDH is rated at 1000lbs tongue weight and the trailer dry is at 850 (add 2 batteries and 2 full propane tanks and I am over that without anything else). I just ordered the 14k equal-i-zer and it should be here within a week (thanks to an online vendor in texas for having it for $480 instead of close to the list price of $830).

Wish I could swing the cost of a propride. I am still using an equal-i-zer but found out the idiots who sold me the camper spec's out the wrong one so I am overloaded and need to upgrade. Probably going to get the 14k version.

You will love the ram. They didn't change much between 2013 and my 2015. I have read that the rams rear suspension handles the wdh much better than the Ford since ford still uses leaf springs and ram is using a coil suspension.

Keep in mind your wdh. You may not realize it but it will need to be adjusted. Mine required a new shank because the 2500 was about 6 inches higher than the old on and there was not enough room to adjust it down. Something to keep in mind. Not a major issue but a minor annoyance.

Nicole, I just hooked up our Rockwood to the ram 2500 today for the first time. Had to adjust the wdh with the new shank I had to get. If you decide to swap manufacturers, you would like the 6.7 cummins. It is quiet and you can't feel the camper behind you. I only notice it is there in the mirrors and when I stop (still working on finding the sweet spot on the brake controller).

How far from home are you looking and how far are you willing to go.? I bet a lot of fiends will help test drive and check things out for you.

That sucks. I would have drove down to give you a hand. It is a few hours away but my son would have enjoyed it. How far out are you looking?

Stick with what your gut tells you. I agree with others, you may not gain anything with any half ton. Don't settle because you are frustrated. You will find what you guys want. 30k is a lot of money to make the wrong decision.

I agree. I still plan on using it. Just trying to figure out why I am seeing some people say you need it and others say you dont.

Slowing down... help me understand how the axle plays a part there?

These are not actual numbers but should give you an idea. Say at 70 mph you are doing 2400rpm on the 3.31 gears. With the 3.55 gears you may be doing 2600rpm. The vehicle naturally will want to slow down when at a higher rpm and you take your foot off of the gas. It is a kind of like an engine brake. Now if your truck has an engine brake on it, that will add to the controlled slow down when you remove your foot from the gas.

You want the 3.55 over the 3.31. Moves your torque lower in the rpm range and will help with the get up and go. Downside to the larger gears is that you will lose a little bit on your mpg. It would probably be very minimal but still a small loss. The 3.55 may also have a slightly higher towing capacity.

Slowing down will also be better in the 3.55 over 3.31.

Forgot about that. Good point.

Hope they still have them when I am there in late november. Would love to have one

New would be good, if we could get it... we've also found a couple of F250s with under 30k (one was that "buy-back" which turned out to be a minor starter issue...but I guess the customer was a thorn in Ford's side, so they bought it back from him).

Question, there are two different sizes for the rear axle: 3.31 and 3.55

The specs show the towing capacity the same at each axle so... is there a reason to search out the 3.55 over the 3.31?

You want the 3.55 over the 3.31. Moves your torque lower in the rpm range and will help with the get up and go. Downside to the larger gears is that you will lose a little bit on your mpg. It would probably be very minimal but still a small loss. The 3.55 may also have a slightly higher towing capacity.

The thing that will dictate the "need" for the WDH is the hitch rating itself. There should be a sticker on the hitch that tells you load capacities with and without weight distribution. If you know what your tongue weight actually is and fall below the weight dictated by the receiver then you don't "need" one. 

 

FWIW I used a WDH with my 3/4 ton pulling a trailer that grossed 6000lbs. It had sway control built in so I used it for that reason alone.

Here is the issue with that, RAM is horrible for not placing the sticker on the hitch. Only sticker or stamp on the hitch is the part number.

The RAM towing guide for my truck states that the recommended tongue weight is 10% of the trailer (which will never happen). It also says the max weight is 1800lbs for the class v hitch that I have on the truck from the factory. It doesn't mention anywhere in the towing guide a need for weight distribution. It has me scratching my head.

Now on the other side, the trucks rear dropped 1 1/4" on just the ball. Front came up about an inch. Seems minimal on both sides.

If you are going to look at the GM twins, look at the 2011 and up due to the ungraded/updated frames and suspension.  Here at the auction building, my truck squats less then the 2009 F-250, 2007 E-350, & 2015 F-250 King Ranch Diesel.  For heavy tounge weight loads, they pick my truck to tow the trailers as I have the most payload of them all.  For loads with all the weight on the axles they'll used the use the King Ranch which has lots of less payload then me.

 

Honestly... I don't want to look at any of them, I'm over it.   Yes... I have a bad attitude today, sorry      It's just a lot to take it in; going into this, we had hoped to find a diesel truck for $30k... now we're finding that this just isn't going to happen and we'll probably end up spending closer to $38k which is really tough to swallow.  If that wasn't enough, it seems like all of it is a big risk. We think, do we go older/cheaper and take our chances and/or try and modify?  Or, do we spend more...but what if that more, still ends up breaking down (a lot) or the gas mileage isn't what we thought it would be??!  This is one car purchase, that is just really frustrating.   Looking at the campgrounds, I see more Fords and Rams (a few GMCs), which leads me to believe that we should really stick with those two brands.

 

Ahh... I feel better ranting (thank you :) )  I just want us to make the right choice.

Honestly... I don't want to look at any of them, I'm over it.   Yes... I have a bad attitude today, sorry      It's just a lot to take it in; going into this, we had hoped to find a diesel truck for $30k... now we're finding that this just isn't going to happen and we'll probably end up spending closer to $38k which is really tough to swallow.  If that wasn't enough, it seems like all of it is a big risk. We think, do we go older/cheaper and take our chances and/or try and modify?  Or, do we spend more...but what if that more, still ends up breaking down (a lot) or the gas mileage isn't what we thought it would be??!  This is one car purchase, that is just really frustrating.   Looking at the campgrounds, I see more Fords and Rams (a few GMCs), which leads me to believe that we should really stick with those two brands.

 

Ahh... I feel better ranting (thank you :) )  I just want us to make the right choice.

 

It gets frustrating looking for vehicles. I have always bought new. My take is since I keep a vehicle 10 years or longer I rather go into it knowing everything that will/has happened to it with the expectation I will have some repairs that I can plan for as it gets older. Given this I still think you are better off getting something as new as you can afford unless you can find one of those elusive barn queens. I also have to say buying vehicles so infrequently I always end up spending more than I want and have just come to expect sticker shock. 

 

As far as brands I stay away from GM products anymore. After having owned some of their 70's and 90's products I have a bad taste in my mouth. I also have an ex-inlaw who was a GMC dealer until the GM bankruptcy who told me he thought Ford had the better overall truck (this was before losing the dealership). I'm sure there are other folks out there who have had different experiences with GM so take what you will from my opinion when added with $5 will by you a cup of coffee at Starbucks.

Hang in there. You are going through the same thing I just did. I ended up with a new truck for the reasons you are pointing out. I got lucky on my trade in and my employer discount really knocked a lot off of the new truck.

It's frustrating but you will get through it.

We use WDH on our 1 ton for mainly sway control. When We changed hitches a friend reccommended the solid lift bars (no chains), and it really helps with sway, but only makes about a 1.5 to 2 inch difference in rear sag.

We have the equal-i-zer hitch and know what you mean about the sway control of bars vs chains. Had a friend tell me when we bought our first TT to stay away from chains and I am glad I did.

I hope I can get 1.5 out of the rear. That would put it back to stock height. I hope it works out that way.

We stayed in 1123 on our last trip with no issues. We had a 27" hybrid that would have been close to your length after everything was folded out. It was a really nice site. Close to a CS and not to bad of a walk to the bus stop and the meadows.

My next trip I am hoping for 1310 or 1312.

To me, a buyback is the same thing as a lemon. Will they disclose the reason for the buyback? Also, if it is a buyback, it probably will decrease its resell value. Just a thought.

For GMC, I have not seen a lot of GM tow vehicles being used. Maybe that is just me but my brother in law commented on it when he bought his ram 1500. He replaced his Silverado with concerns about longevity with towing. The funny thing is that he is a die hard GM guy and switched to ram for towing reasons. He never explained all of them to me but he just says that the ram tows better than the silverado.

If it were me personally, I would stick with ram or ford. I am a mopar guy but will give ford credit for their larger trucks (don't get me started on my ranger experiences).

So for grins, I hooked up the camper to the 2500 and measured the squat without the WDH. The truck dropped 1 1/4". Doesn't seem like a lot. Still waiting for the longer shank for my equalizer. Will probably still put it on just for sway control. Doubt the WD will do much.

Wow that is some serious orange. I love their burnt orange but they don't make it anymore which sucks.

Question for all of you fiends out there. Are you using a WDH on your 3/4 ton trucks? I have read that you don't need one some places and others saying you do. I have a 35' Rockwood 8312ss that weights 7400lbs dry with ~950lbs tongue weight prior to propane, batteries, and storage load. I have an equalizer hitch and had to order a new shank for it because the 2500 is about 6 inches taller in the rear vs the 1500.

Was curious what other fiends were using on their rigs.