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bhall

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Posts posted by bhall

  1. Okay... just realized that he'll probably be coming behind me tonight, to read what y'all have said.  Don't get any ideas babe... remember what Mike said, "don't buy a boat... just find a friend who owns one" :)

     

    Good feedback on the truck so far Fiends... keep the suggestions coming!!

    Agreed.  I live in a private lake community and we don't have a boat anymore.  Between the camper, street rod and muscle cars, & pets, I have enough money pits.

  2. IMO, the size of the back seat in the GM/Chevy products was dwarfed in comparison to the Ford and Dodge/Ram. I did like the Mega Cab in the Dodge/Ram, but prior to 2013, their payload numbers were pathetic compared to a similarly equipped crew cab.

     

    People-mover-ness, my wife felt the Ford truck was more "work truck like" than she liked.

     

    I prefer a 4x4 truck, but it does make it taller (which I dislike).

     

    I prefer a long bed truck.

    That's why I bought my 2015 2500 Chevy Silverado crew cab.  I took the dog cage and folded up the back seats and attempted to put the cage on the back seat floor.  The new style Chevy was the only one beside the Ram Mega Cab the cage would fit on the back floor and not having to move up front seat even more.  I couldn't get the cage in any of the Fords, older GMs or the regular crew cab Rams.  My boss just bought a brand new F250 Crew Cab King Ranch (It's good to be the boss) and both his kids agree that my back seat area has more room.  Even the back doors are longer.

  3. 6.0 Fords can be good trucks if they are fixed correctly. I have a 06 and had an 05. Both were bulletproofed ahead of problems. I talked to the buyer of the 05 a few months ago, and it is going strong approaching 200k.

    If the work was performed correctly I would not hesitate to buy one. With that said those trucks in your links are high priced imo. I paid 16k for my 2006 dually, lariat, cc, 4x4 with 122k on it back in 2010.

    I also had a 2003 and 2005 dodge 2500's with the Cummins. I had more problems with them (no engine trouble) than the Fords.

    My ex brother-in-law's Excursion 6.0 has been "bullet-proofed" twice by two different repair facilities and it's now sitting again with bad injectors and an oil pump.  This is the 3rd set of injectors and 2nd oil pump.  He mulling around the idea of fixing it again and selling it.

  4. Diesels are durable and known for their longevity (unless it's the old Ford 7.3s or 6.0s)  However, items like injectors will be costly.  Another thing to consider with the mileage and age of truck is the rest of the parts on the truck itself.  Brakes/Suspension/Transmission/Rear End Gears, Transfer Case if 4x4, etc....Those items will wear out and degrade much quicker than the diesel itself.  Approach an older, high mileage truck with those factors in your mind and find out if they need replaced or will go out soon.

  5. Hi Tom,

     

    I really don't have anything to say about Ford or Ram/Dodge as I'm a GM person, but I would only consider 2011 or newer GM twins.  Can't give you advice on which is the best diesel either as I'm also not a fit for diesels because I make multiple short trips daily and I need the payload capacity on my 2500 for my 5th wheel  For example, I have a 2015 Silverado LT 4x4 Crew Cab w/6.0 gasser and 4.10 rear end.  My payload is stickered at 2,831lbs.  A friend just bought a 2015 Silverado LT 4x4 Crew Cab w/6.6 Duramax and 3.73 rear end.  His payload is stickered at 2,367lbs.  That's 464lbs less due to the diesel.  His and mine are optioned identically with the exception of the towing mirrors since mine was the pre-August build it has the old style towing mirrors and I lack wi-fi.

     

    Now, back to why I recommend only 2011 and higher.

     


    As of 2011 the GMC and Chevrolet heavy Duty's have being upgraded with a new fully boxed high strength steel frame from front to rear improving stiffness by 92% with bigger rear springs, larger engine and transmission mounts and new hydraulic body mounts to improve the ride.The front suspension incorporates new upper and lower control arms and new torsion bars tailored to one of five different gross axle weight ratings. Upper control arms are constructed from forged steel that is both stronger and lighter than the previous arms, while the new lower arms are cast iron to maximize load capacity. Using a unique torsion bar for each gross weight rating allows for better control over vehicle height, resulting in improved handling and better alignment for reduced tire wear. These improvements allow for up to a 6,000 pound front axle weight rating, allowing all 4wd trucks to accommodate a snow plow. Additional front suspension enhancements come from new urethane bump stops, two per side. The upper shock mount has been changed from a single stem mount to a two-bolt design to eliminate the possibility of squeaks and thumps. The rear suspension design uses asymmetrical leaf springs that are wider and capable of greater load handling. The design features 3-inch wide leaves, with front and rear spring sections of different lengths to reduce the twisting that can result in axle hop and loss of traction. The 2500HD use a two-stage design with a rating of 6,200 lbs, and 3500HD models have a three-stage design with 7,050 lb and 9,375 lb ratings on single and dual-wheel models respectively

    .

    Bob

  6. This is what I use that got from Lowes.


     


    http://www.lowes.com/pd_146781-40883-KL12120_0Z2z8vm__?productId=3522750&pl=1&Ntt=kobalt+air+pump


     


    You can plug it in to 110/115 volt outlet (You will need an extension cord for this) or you can plug it into a 12v source.


    You set it to the PSI you want/need and then it will shut off automatically for you so you can walk away and do other things. 


    I use it on the muscle car.  I  use it on the street rod.  I use it for the lawn tractor and lawn cart.  I use it on bicycles.  I use it for my


    wife's car and I use it on my truck which the I keep the rear tires at 80 PSI on that.  I take it with me when I go camping always and use it


    on the day we depart. 


    I own a large Craftsman air compressor on wheel that resides in the garage and I also own a small Craftsman pancake style air compressor that and I prefer this to air up the tires.  The muscle car and street rod only reside a few feet from the large compressor but I don't use that anymore to air up tires.  I'll pull out this Kolbalt and let it work.  It's much more convenient as it's truly portable and we'll make your trip home with your camper safer as you will be able to ensure you have the proper air pressure before you hit the road. 


    Did I steer you wrong with the torque wrench recommendation ?


  7. J&D Campground in Catawissa/Elysburg, PA.  Stayed there last in October.  Nice view, and wide open spaces and 1 mile from Knoebels Grove Amusement Park.  We have talked about parking our camper there as a Seasonal for awhile now.

    Artillery Ridge Campground in Gettysburg.  Stayed there last Memorial Day even though it's 10 minutes from the house.  I just like it there, I can't explain why but everything just 'feels right' to me at that place.

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