PUP question

[Travisma 1,317]

Picking up a used Coleman Saturday. Had one years ago. One question, do you level/stabilize the unit before or after you crank up the roof? Same for taking it down. Stable or free floating?

[bord1niowa......Curt 79]

First thing up and last thing taking it down.  It will keep it straight so there is less pressure on the guides as it goes up and down.  You don't want any more pressure than there is already.  Good idea to put some oil in there once in a while to keep it moving smoothly.  Also on the crank and cable.

 

What  are you getting?

[Travisma 1,317]

First thing up and last thing taking it down.  It will keep it straight so there is less pressure on the guides as it goes up and down.  You don't want any more pressure than there is already.  Good idea to put some oil in there once in a while to keep it moving smoothly.  Also on the crank and cable.

 

What  are you getting?

Thanks, that what I thought/remembered from way back when. The seller said after but it didn't feel right.

86 Coleman, it's about 8 to 10 foot closed. Looks like the canvas had been replaced. There is a hole (patched ) in one of the slide out roofs. They had closed it and the dome light was on and it melted a hole thru the vinyl. They used a vinyl tape, looking for a more permanent solution.

Overall it seems in decent shape.

Any recommendations on sealing the roof? It felt like aluminum, has a rubber/plastic strip down the center with a crack in it. I was thinking of silicone caulking all around the seams and then brushing on either the white or silver mobile home roof sealant on the entire roof. I know roofs are the weak spots.

I may remove the sink/stove cabinet and replace it with a storage cabinet to hold a microwave and a skillet and crockpot.

[bord1niowa......Curt 79]

That should work. Keep in mind to seal around the air conditioner too. It is a weak point with Coleman's. If it is the aluminum roof you are fortunate. The ABS roof is known to crack & crumble.

[Tri-Circle-D 2,059]

First thing up and last thing taking it down.  It will keep it straight so there is less pressure on the guides as it goes up and down.  You don't want any more pressure than there is already.  Good idea to put some oil in there once in a while to keep it moving smoothly.  Also on the crank and cable.

 

What  are you getting?

 

Curt-

 

I know you know your stuff, and you have owned and operated more pop-up campers than probably anyone on this board.  But, if you're saying to put the corner stabilizer jacks down before cranking the roof, that is contrary to what Coleman/Fleetwood says in their instructions.

 

My owner's manual for my 2000 Coleman camper says crank up the roof before putting down the jacks.  And, when cranking down the roof, they say that the jacks should be lifted before the roof is cranked down.

 

So did the dealer when I bought it.

 

And so does an instructional video that came with my camper.  I couldn't find the video that I got on YouTube, but this one says the same thing- crank up the roof before you put down the jacks:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bH7m_7VC_Q

 

Maybe that is unique to Coleman/Fleetwood?

 

TCD

[fortpartyof4 108]

First thing up and last thing taking it down.  It will keep it straight so there is less pressure on the guides as it goes up and down.  You don't want any more pressure than there is already.  Good idea to put some oil in there once in a while to keep it moving smoothly.  Also on the crank and cable.

 

What  are you getting?

 

That last bit is EXCELLENT advice.  The crank on our former Coleman pop-up went - while at the Fort - got stuck while it was open!  Had to have someone come out and snap the cable then manually bring the roof down.  

 

They do not make the parts any more, and the shop had to have them machined.  Total to replace the crank shaft assembly was around $800.

[Travisma 1,317]

That should work. Keep in mind to seal around the air conditioner too. It is a weak point with Coleman's. If it is the aluminum roof you are fortunate. The ABS roof is known to crack & crumble.

No A/C in the roof to worry about.

 

Is there any sort of tan roof sealant available?  On my old one I used the white mobile home roof sealant.  The silver stuff is thicker, but not as good looking.

 

That last bit is EXCELLENT advice.  The crank on our former Coleman pop-up went - while at the Fort - got stuck while it was open!  Had to have someone come out and snap the cable then manually bring the roof down.  

 

They do not make the parts any more, and the shop had to have them machined.  Total to replace the crank shaft assembly was around $800.

Wow, I'll definitely lube everything.  That's all I'm paying for the PUP!

[fortpartyof4 108]

No A/C in the roof to worry about.

 

Is there any sort of tan roof sealant available?  On my old one I used the white mobile home roof sealant.  The silver stuff is thicker, but not as good looking.

 

Wow, I'll definitely lube everything.  That's all I'm paying for the PUP!

 

Yes….and be careful not to over-crank it when lifting the roof.  That is what they said we did to cause it.

[fortpartyof4 108]

PS:  congrats on the new pop-up!  We loved ours!

[bord1niowa......Curt 79]

It would be interesting to see why they say to raise the roof first.  I can't think of any reason.  I know that the cables would be less likely to rub and wear if they are straight than leaning against a crooked shaft.  The guides should also be lubed once in a while for just that reason too.  Especially if they are telescopic.

[bord1niowa......Curt 79]

The video does say to level it first then raise it, then put down the jacks.  I feel better by putting down the jacks so that it cannot move around while you are raising it.  Those darn Coleman's wind and wind and wind, about twice as many as the Jayco.   Lol  I think the key is to make sure it's level first.

[Memphis 105]

The reason for raising the roof first is to have no chance of someone putting to much pressure on the stabilizer causing the the frame to flex and possibly binding the lift supports.  I have seen some people use the stabilizers to level the camper.  That is NOT their purpose. They are to be used to stabilize the camper and give extra support to the frame.  I always check side to side level first, chock the ties on the camper, unhitch, level front to back, raise the roof, put down the stabilizers only allowing them to make good contact with the ground, then finish my setup.  Most of the time there is a beer opened sometime in the process.       

[bord1niowa......Curt 79]

Get the important stuff done before you pop open the beer....lol

 

I can see the jacks being a problem.   They should not be used to level it only stabilize it as you mentioned.  I don't do that so I didn't think that way....lol.   But, I can understand people doing it.

[Travisma 1,317]

The reason for raising the roof first is to have no chance of someone putting to much pressure on the stabilizer causing the the frame to flex and possibly binding the lift supports.  I have seen some people use the stabilizers to level the camper.  That is NOT their purpose. They are to be used to stabilize the camper and give extra support to the frame.  I always check side to side level first, chock the ties on the camper, unhitch, level front to back, raise the roof, put down the stabilizers only allowing them to make good contact with the ground, then finish my setup.  Most of the time there is a beer opened sometime in the process.

I'm going to play dumb here.... Not too hard. How do you level it without the 2 legs and the front hitch jack? That what I used to do with my old pup back in the dark ages.

[Katman1356...Jason 1,140]

I'm going to play dumb here.... Not too hard. How do you level it without the 2 legs and the front hitch jack? That what I used to do with my old pup back in the dark ages.

 

You can use this to level left to right.

 

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/bal-light-trailer-tire-leveler/21017

 

and then the hitch jack for front to back. I am picking on them up for us for the coming season. 

[bord1niowa......Curt 79]

I just use a good old -fashioned piece of wood, either 1 inch or 2...lol

[Katman1356...Jason 1,140]

I just use a good old -fashioned piece of wood, either 1 inch or 2...lol

 

unfortunately even here at the house the difference is more like 3-4 inches. New England sites tend to be on all kinds of pitches so I am just going around the sites issue with this. 

[Memphis 105]

I have seven pieces of 3/4" hardwood. I do all my camping in Florida and have never needed more than 3 boards. I level side to side first with the camper still hitched so I can back the camper up on the boards. Then unhitch and use the tounge jack to level front to back.

[mouseketab.....Carol 1,261]

I'm going to play dumb here.... Not too hard. How do you level it without the 2 legs and the front hitch jack? That what I used to do with my old pup back in the dark ages.

You should NEVER use the stabilizer legs for leveling. That can warp your frame.  You should side to side level with waffle plastic pieces, a piece of wood, or a BAL leveler. Front to back is done with the front hitch jack.

 

The BAL leveler is AWESOME for single axle trailers!! Best piece of equipment hands down I have for my camper.

[Travisma 1,317]

Found a site that had old coleman manuals. They say to unhitch the trailer then level using the hitch jack. Then raise the roof and after lower the stabilizers. That's when you slide out and set up the ends and door. Do not use the stabilizers to raise the trailer other than if you have to change a flat. Nothing about leveling side to side.

[bord1niowa......Curt 79]

 Nothing about leveling side to side.

Well you know all sites in the world of camping are level so they don't need to talk about that....lol

[mouseketab.....Carol 1,261]

Found a site that had old coleman manuals. They say to unhitch the trailer then level using the hitch jack. Then raise the roof and after lower the stabilizers. That's when you slide out and set up the ends and door. Do not use the stabilizers to raise the trailer other than if you have to change a flat. Nothing about leveling side to side.

You shouldn't even use the stabilizers to change a tire. The trailer should be lifted near the axle with a jack. The frame cannot take the warping factor of lifting with the stabilizers!  You can't lift all four at once!

[Memphis 105]

Here is a clip from a coleman 2001 manual

You can see the whole manual here http://www.popupportal.com/manuals/Coleman/Coleman_2001.pdf

[FloridaCamperRental 0]

I have set up a few pop up campers in my time (lol) and we always check for level left to right 1st. Then  adjust front to back with a little pitch going towards the back right so a/c water runs away from the campsite. Then stabilize down, usually always passenger side 1st. Then raised the roof. It has worked for me.

 

Most of the sites in 1500/2000 are good enough without breaking out the leveling blocks although there were a few that were really bad which they have recently leveled them up. But they will wash back out.

 

Not saying not to do it by the book but I can only imagine the camper would move around a quite bit even with the wheels chucked if you raised the roof before you put the stabilizer jacks down.

 

Congrats on your pop up.

[Travisma 1,317]

FloridaCamperRental thanks for the info.  I set it up yesterday just to inspect it better, clean it and air it out.  I only leveled it front to back since we weren't leaving it up for more than a few hours.

 

Now next question.

 

The owner we got it from had closed it up and left the dome light on (no cover over the bulb) and it melted a couple of holes in the bunk end vinyl roof.  They patched it with tape, looks like it might be white duck tape.  I'm looking for a more permanent solution.

 

I can probably take it to a canvas repair shop, but that's a hassle.  Has anyone heard of a good type of patch/DIY repair?

 

I found this Super Kwik Patch on ebay

 

Item Price at $5.25 per linear foot (6" wide x 12" long). 

Super Kwik Patch is a new and revolutionary adhesive backed product for quick and easy repairs of all your PVC coated fabric products.

- No messy glues or need to carry scrap material.

Why throw away a perfectly good RV, car, or boat cover. Why remove and send your awning, canopy, or truck tarp in for a simple repair when you can do it yourself with the Super Kwik Patch. SKP also works on repairing geosynthetic liners, just peel and stick. 

- Fix it on the spot in just a few minutes with Super Kwik Patch.  

Super Kwik Patch comes in a roll of 6" wide x 75' long and is sold by the linear foot.  

- Just cut Super Kwik Patch to size...peel off the backing...and press down around the edges of the hole or tear and its fixed!

Super Kwik Patch comes in six standard colors: Blue, Black, Green White, Red and Silver. If you need a custom color, order white and simply paint it to match the color you need. Super Kwik Patch can and will hold acrylic based paints beautifully.

 

 

Sounds great, but they only offer 1 shipping option at $5.30, so it's actually more to ship then the cost for 1 foot.

 

 

Does Camping World/Ace Hardware/WallyWorld offer anything similar?