Winterizing and battery disconnect

[Tankpilot 9]

Judy, you need to at least do the following:

 

1.  Drain your black and grey holding tanks.  If some water remains in them, it is probably ok as there is room for it to expand if it freezes.  But at least drain the smelly stuff as best as possible. 

 

2.  Your water heater most likely has a valve behind it that bypasses it from the rest of the water supply lines.  Not sure where you access the back of your water heater, but it's usually under a bed, behind an access panel somewhere, or maybe in a basement storage compartment.  Once you find the bypass valve, turn it.  This isolates the water heater so that anything moving through your water lines (water, antifreeze, air) won't fill up the water heater tank. 

 

3.  Drain the water heater. 

 

4.  Then, you want to blow all the water that sits in your water lines out so it doesn't freeze and crack the water lines.  Do you have an air compressor?  If so...you have a couple options.  The cheapest is to pick up one of these doohickeys from Walmart. 

 

 

You screw it into the water intake for your city water hookup, and take your air chuck and press it up against the nipple.  No jokes, please.  :)  You need two people for this....one to hold the air chuck against the doohickey while the 2nd opens the faucets one at a time.  When a faucet is opened, water should come spraying out followed by compressed air.  Do this to all faucets in your unit.  Don't forget outside showers.  Both hot and cold, too.  Also, make sure you don't have the air pressure so high it blows out a faucet o-ring or anything.  Maybe 40 psi should be sufficient? 

 

5.  After you are sure all water has been blown from all lines, get some pink RV antifreeze (also sold at Walmart) and pour a cup or so down each drain.  This protects the traps from freezing, as they retain water to keep sewer smells from coming up from your holding tanks. 

 

6.  I also pour a little into the toilet to protect the rubber seal from freezing and/or drying out. 

 

7.  Then protect your battery from draining down.  Either just disconnect or remove completely and store inside with a trickle charge on it.  I actually have stored mine over the winter without a charger hooked up and  been fine. 

 

It sounds like a lot, but it really shouldn't take too long, especially after you've done it once or twice.   In the spring, don't forget to turn the water heater bypass back the other way....or you can even do this after you are done winterizing.  You DO NOT want to forget and turn on the water heater in the spring thinking it is full of water, as it will burn out the element.

You can also get one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-36143-Brass-Quick-Connect/dp/B002XL2IEA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3JJTS9VP7F02J&coliid=I1F5N7FIC70RCP

And make it a one person job, just hook the hose directly to it and turn the compressor on. As stated, be sure to limit the air, don't wanna pump in 130 psi and make your pipes into balloons.

I read to make sure you use a type of inline filter on your air hose, like ones used on paint sprayers. This keeps any oil/gunk that may be in your compressor from getting into you water lines. You then have to get a few fittings to attach it. I bought everything at harbor freight for under $10. Still need to get a 3/8 (or 1/4) to 1/2 converter so I can attach it to city inlet line.

Here are some of the filters on amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/DISPOSABLE-AIR-LINE-FILTERS-PC/dp/B000PRWJ9I/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1382653431&sr=8-11&keywords=Inline+paint+filter

Here is a link to how one person made their filter adapter:

http://rv.theleclairs.org/photo-rz.htm

All that being said, some would probably say you don't need the filter. But it is easy to put together and only cost about $10 for everything.

[ImDownWithDisney 342]

I don't winterize (heated shop and we camp year round), but if I did I would compressed air. I hate pumping out the antifreeze. One thing I do in the winter is pour some antifreeze in the holding tanks. I have had the sewer pipe freeze up on the drive home.

[ftwildernessguy 778]

I am working on a mixed drink using the leftover RV antifreeze. I'll let you know how it goes.

[h2odivers...Ray 952]

The reason most campers need a disconnect switch is that even when nothing is turned on the camper, there are parasitic drains on the battery. For example, on my camper, the drain is the ceiling fan, and the propane detector. If you store it in a place without power, then your battery will be repeatedly drained to empty which is not good for it. For some campers, it is easy to simply disconnect the negative lead and you are fine. In the case of my camper, the battery is under a closet inside a battery box, so actually getting to the battery is not a simple procedure, so I installed a disconnect switch.

Now mine stays plugged in all the time, so no need.

Thanks. I understand why a disconnect switch on some rv's would be necessary.

Since I've owned motorcycles and boats for most of my adult life I would still recommend putting any battery that is not going to be used over the winter on a charger. A trickle charger is an inexpensive way of doubling or even tripling the life of your batteries.

[DaveInTN 3,247]

I am working on a mixed drink using the leftover RV antifreeze. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

You could call it a Pink Lady.  

[h2odivers...Ray 952]

You could call it a Pink Lady.

A pink lady is an old fashioned drink consisting of gin, grenadine, and an egg white. Yes I said egg white.

I think I'd rather drink the pink RV antifreeze.

[caveat lector 181]

I just can't come to grips with season being over. I used compressed air, then set the thermostat to 40. With slide in and the underneath being enclosed, I should be able to extend the season a bit.

[ftwildernessguy 778]

I tried subbing the strawberry daiquiri mix with the antifreeze in a Kungaloosh. Nope.

[Tankpilot 9]

Just went out to trailer to look at the battery wires, I have the two wires coming off the positive and one off the negative. One of the wires off the positive goes directly to the break away switch, the other goes to the converter. The one that goes to the converter has a in-line 30 amp blade fuse in it. I am thinking that instead of installing a disconnect switch I can remove that fuse and accomplish the same thing. I do not have to remove the battery box top to access the fuse.

[twiceblessed....nacole 433]

We're in the Atlanta area so not cold, cold...but last year we did have several snowy days so.... advise on winterizing the camper?  At what temp should we be looking at antifreeze?  Our battery isn't even connected (we've actually never used it), so is the antifreeze all we do?  Oh... and how do I get the antifreeze out of the lines next Spring?    Also, do I put something down the commode?   Newbie questions, I know 

 

SMALL chance that we might camp once before the end of November... so I'm guessing I should wait till then to do anything.  

 

Our camper is stored outside in our driveway.

[DaveInTN 3,247]

What I would do in your climate (which is similar to my climate), is to blow the lines out with compressed air rather than pump pink stuff through all your lines.  I would use some pink stuff and pour a cup or so down each drain so your traps don't freeze, and I'd also put maybe 1/2 a cup into the toilet bowl (don't flush it) to keep the seals moist without freezing them.  Don't forget the tub drain too.  

 

If you don't know how to blow the lines out, let us know.  Just be sure when you do it that you open each faucet one at a time to get all air out, and don't forget the outside shower if you have one.  

 

Putting pink stuff in all the lines certainly wouldn't hurt anything and offers extra protection, but I don't think it's necessary especially in the south.  JMHO.  

[dblr....Rennie 224]

X2 on what Dave said but also flush the toilet when you are winterizing to clear water out of those lines also.

[DaveInTN 3,247]

X2 on what Dave said but also flush the toilet when you are winterizing to clear water out of those lines also.

Correct, what I said was probably confusing. I meant not to flush after all of that if you add a little pink stuff to the bowl for the gasket. But definitely flush when blowing the lines out. Replacing a toilet would stink. :D

[Retired and Happy (Ken) 101]

Nacole,

 

Is your battery charged?  If it is just sitting there, it will lose charge gradually.  If it is sitting in the cold, it will lose charge quicker.  Sooner or later it will be eded and cannot be recharged..or at least not to full charge.  I would bring it inside or connect it to the charger connectors of your converter.  Other non MH campers may be able to give better advise.

[keith_h 420]

Don't forget to run your pump dry as blowing the lines will not nessecarily remove water in it and drain your hot water and drinking water tanks. I plan to do what Dave has said above since we intend to use the trailer throughout the winter. We have lived in colder climates where we had sprinkler systems that we only blew out without problems and I see no reason for the trailer to be different with the exception of making sure the pump is clear of water.

[dblr....Rennie 224]

Also empty your water filter incase you have one, ours is inline but in the docking area and if not emptied will freeze and crack, I know this for sure not saying how I do but I do :well-duh-smiley:

[twiceblessed....nacole 433]

What I would do in your climate (which is similar to my climate), is to blow the lines out with compressed air rather than pump pink stuff through all your lines.  I would use some pink stuff and pour a cup or so down each drain so your traps don't freeze, and I'd also put maybe 1/2 a cup into the toilet bowl (don't flush it) to keep the seals moist without freezing them.  Don't forget the tub drain too.  

 

If you don't know how to blow the lines out, let us know.  Just be sure when you do it that you open each faucet one at a time to get all air out, and don't forget the outside shower if you have one.  

 

Putting pink stuff in all the lines certainly wouldn't hurt anything and offers extra protection, but I don't think it's necessary especially in the south.  JMHO.  

 

Oh gosh... I don't understand using compressed air.  We don't have an air compressor, so how would I do this?  I'm guessing we'll need to take the trailer somewhere...but then how exactly do you use (hook-up) the air to flush out the lines?  The toilet... do we flush out the holding tank?  The camper does have an outside shower; we haven't used it, but we just bought the trailer this Spring so who knows if the previous owner did. 

 

 

Don't forget to run your pump dry as blowing the lines will not nessecarily remove water in it and drain your hot water and drinking water tanks. I plan to do what Dave has said above since we intend to use the trailer throughout the winter. We have lived in colder climates where we had sprinkler systems that we only blew out without problems and I see no reason for the trailer to be different with the exception of making sure the pump is clear of water.

 

What does that mean, "pump dry"?  Sorry... we're new to rving and are really uneducated.  Learning.. but still (obviously) have a lot to learn.

[twiceblessed....nacole 433]

Nacole,

 

Is your battery charged?  If it is just sitting there, it will lose charge gradually.  If it is sitting in the cold, it will lose charge quicker.  Sooner or later it will be eded and cannot be recharged..or at least not to full charge.  I would bring it inside or connect it to the charger connectors of your converter.  Other non MH campers may be able to give better advise.

 

Yes, I believe it's charged... just not connected.  So I should disconnect it and store it somewhere where it's warm?

[mouseketab.....Carol 1,261]

Yes, I believe it's charged... just not connected.  So I should disconnect it and store it somewhere where it's warm?

Yes I would, and also go to Harbor Freight or Northern Tool and get a trickle charger (less than $10) and plug it in all winter.

[twiceblessed....nacole 433]

Yes I would, and also go to Harbor Freight or Northern Tool and get a trickle charger (less than $10) and plug it in all winter.

 

Trickle charger.  Got it.  I'll look for one of those.

[keith_h 420]

Oh gosh... I don't understand using compressed air.  We don't have an air compressor, so how would I do this?  I'm guessing we'll need to take the trailer somewhere...but then how exactly do you use (hook-up) the air to flush out the lines?  The toilet... do we flush out the holding tank?  The camper does have an outside shower; we haven't used it, but we just bought the trailer this Spring so who knows if the previous owner did. 

 

 

 

What does that mean, "pump dry"?  Sorry... we're new to rving and are really uneducated.  Learning.. but still (obviously) have a lot to learn.

 

My first step is to drain the hot water heater. To drain you remove the anode and let the tank drain. Once drained I reinstall the anode. Since our winter campgrounds have bath houses and the water heater uses a lot of propane I would rather use to heat the trailer I bypass the water heater until spring. This is also the time I drain my drinking water tank and run the pump dry since they are in the same compartment as the water heater bypass . All running dry means is I run the pump until no more water comes out. I also open the hot and cold drain lines under my trailer and remove any water that may be left in the pumps screen filter.

 

Next I blow out the hot and cold water lines. To blow out the lines you use and adapter similar to this, http://www.amazon.com/Camco-36143-Brass-Quick-Connect/dp/B002XL2IEA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414679104&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=trsiler+air+line+adapter . When blowing out the lines you only want to use 30-40 lbs of pressure. This means you do not want to use any air compressor that you cannot control the pressure on. To blow out the lines you hook the air up to the city water connection then open each of the plumbing fixtures one at a time and leave them open until no more water comes out. Then disconnect the air hose from the trailer. This removes almost all of the water so the little bit left in the lines will not cause problems when it freezes as it has room to expand. When I'm done I like to leave the faucets open just cause it seems like a good thing to do. To make somethings like the indoor and outdoor shower heads easier to clear I just disconnect the spray head hose before blowing the lines and let them drain naturally.

 

Lastly a bit of pink antifreeze poured into the drain traps and toilet bowl. I dump my tanks after every trip so they are mostly empty but I believe in adding some antifreeze to both the grey and black water tanks to keep any pooled water by the dump valves from freezing and damaging them.

[keith_h 420]

I forgot to add a warning about your water heater. If you have a dual gas/electric unit make sure you turn the electric heating portion off before draining the tank. Usually there is a switch on the backside of the water heater behind the exterior cover. Failure to do this can result in burning out the heating element. Sorry I didn't think of this sooner but my unit is all gas so it is something I don't normally think about.

[Cyclonic 55]

In your climate I think I would just blow the lines out and pour some pink antifreeze down each drain to protect the traps.

That is what I do even here in Virginia. I have a very small system, so there is not much to it, and we camp year round, so it is nice to not have to drain anti freeze each time.

Like Carol, I have a disconnect switch on my battery, and even though it stays plugged ini shut down the battery so it does not over charge it. On long breaks and in winter I connect it to a maintainer.

[twiceblessed....nacole 433]

I understand about the lines...what about the holding tanks? I know have a small amount of water in them, at least the commode tank does as we add enzymes after we flush each each trip.

[keith_h 420]

As I said I believe in putting some antifreeze in the black and grey tanks to prevent freezing near the dump valves. I don't worry about the residual water in the fresh water tank and it will have room to expand.