Tow Vehicle ..PURCHASE made!

[bhall 115]

Google "Death Wobble" on youtube.  Watch it and then ask that question again.  I had a 2007 that we loved, but got the Death Wobble about 100k miles and dropped $1500 into it to no avail - read where they updated the geometry of the new (2013 and up) Ram's and traded my 07 in for a 13.  Absolutely loved the truck - got the first wobble at 21K miles.   Had it lined up hoping it was just the caster - nope.  Had to cancel a beach trip with our Camper and scramble last minute to find a beach house for a LOT more $$$ so the week not wasted.

 

I am in the process of looking for another truck.  I will never again buy a Dodge.  In the spirit of complete disclosure, I have owned all three (Ford, Dodge, Chevy) and have read reports of Ford's doing this also but it  is rare.  Chevrolet's don't.  

 

I can stand the thought of an engine that blows up - can't stand the thought of losing steering and control going 65 miles and hour down the road pulling 13K.  Not worth my life nor anyone else's...

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=death+wobble

First result for me was a Ford F-250, (not surprised) then the Jeeps and Rams

I have experienced the death wobble first hand many years ago while road test driving a Jeep for PA's safety inspection.  I thought my eyeballs were going to shake out of my head.  None of my GM trucks ever did that nor did any that I had to drive nor were any brought into the shop for that trouble.

[twiceblessed....nacole 433]

I don't think I got feedback on this....

 

I know that we don't want a truck that is lifted (I mean, it's ugly...right!  Yes, I know there are other reasons :) ).    However... if found a good truck that was lifted, could we lower it and be okay??

[swimmarz 72]

I don't think I got feedback on this....

 

I know that we don't want a truck that is lifted (I mean, it's ugly...right!  Yes, I know there are other reasons :) ).    However... if found a good truck that was lifted, could we lower it and be okay??

that all depends on the lift, some are easy bolt on, some are welded.

 

if your going to go back to stock, the lifts that use spacers will be the easiset ro revert back to normal.

just unbolt, remove the spacer, and replace the hardware and shocks.

 

if its more than spacers, say factory brackets removed and things welded or bolted on, its going to get pretty involved pretty quickly.

 

in either case, you are going to replace the shocks, nuts bolts and other hardware, so keep that in mind for cost purposes.

[twiceblessed....nacole 433]

Thank you.

[PGHFiend 140]

Nacole, I've got your truck up here in PA. I am sending you a PM.

[LONE-STAR 370]

Did yall buy a truck this thread has gone quite?

[twiceblessed....nacole 433]

Lone Star this is Tom. We have not bought a truck yet. One issue we are having is limited time to get out if it is not local. Couple that with the fact that every time we find a vehicle it is sold when we call. Ok Mr. Dealer take it off your website and Auto Trader etc. I did find 2 near by that I am going to look at (1 hopefully on Sat and 1 on Mon). We have a couple others we may try and see but they are about 5 hours away. I swear I am about to trade the camper in and keep my car. LOL. Sorry honey. 

[LONE-STAR 370]

Lone Star this is Tom. We have not bought a truck yet. One issue we are having is limited time to get out if it is not local. Couple that with the fact that every time we find a vehicle it is sold when we call. Ok Mr. Dealer take it off your website and Auto Trader etc. I did find 2 near by that I am going to look at (1 hopefully on Sat and 1 on Mon). We have a couple others we may try and see but they are about 5 hours away. I swear I am about to trade the camper in and keep my car. LOL. Sorry honey.

Well just trade the camper in on a motor home and problem solved.

[twiceblessed....nacole 433]

Oh gosh Michael...,. you're too funny.  If only you knew how many times I've (half) joked with Tom and said, "See babe... if we had just bought that class A... ;)".

 

Andrew was nice and sent us a really good option, except for the fact that it's 13+ hours (one way) from our home (plus I was a little nervous about the salt up in that area, but that my be an unnecessary concern... don't really know that much there).  We found another two or three possible options in TX; those too are far... a good 10+ hours one way.  You have to ask yourself, how far do you really want to go??  Heck.. how much time does one have to really search/drive/buy a stinkin' truck.  It's all giving me a headache. 

 

The one up in PA was the first that we saw up that way, but we will say that TX seems to have a good deal of F250's out that way.  As Tom mentioned, there are a couple this weekend that we may be looking at (one is about an hour from our home; the other is around 2 hours away) and then one next week (if it's still available) down in the Pensacola area where we have plans to be anyway.  Prayerfully, we'll make a sound decision... and a sound decision very soon.

[bhall 115]

If the truck has spent more then 3-4 years here in PA, I would be concerned about the underpinnings and such.  The salt and liquid magnesium chloride are more corrosive then just salt by itself.  Within a couple of seasons we saw more corrosion then what the norm was.  Brake lines and Emergency Brake cables on all makes and models seemed to have been the hardest hit.  I replaced brake lines on 4 PA State Police Ford Crown Vics within a year of them using the mixture in that area of our state.  The brake lines were not an issue before that.  The 2009 F-250 at work is really rusty underneath.  Outside of it is pristine, looks like a turd underneath and the brake lines will have to be replaced sooner then later.  If it wouldn't be for winter weather, I think I still might be turning wrenches

[swimmarz 72]

If the truck has spent more then 3-4 years here in PA, I would be concerned about the underpinnings and such.  The salt and liquid magnesium chloride are more corrosive then just salt by itself.  Within a couple of seasons we saw more corrosion then what the norm was.  Brake lines and Emergency Brake cables on all makes and models seemed to have been the hardest hit.  I replaced brake lines on 4 PA State Police Ford Crown Vics within a year of them using the mixture in that area of our state.  The brake lines were not an issue before that.  The 2009 F-250 at work is really rusty underneath.  Outside of it is pristine, looks like a turd underneath and the brake lines will have to be replaced sooner then later.  If it wouldn't be for winter weather, I think I still might be turning wrenches

Salt Scares Me, I lived in NH and purchased my Xterrra New in 2007, after every snow storm +/- 3 days I would get the SUV washed with the full undercarriage blast.  While that did help, there still are signs of corrosion that were noticed when I moved to Florida in 2013.  I spent many hours under the X cleaning/ scrubbing, neutralizing the rust with various chemicals, and then applying a new layer of undercoating.  I am confident that i got most of the rust issues on the frame and under the truck resolved, but it took a lot of work to get there.  now I have 2 small bubbles on the hood, so ill be sanding and respraying that in the near future.

 

No matter how much you try to keep them clean, rust will find its way, especially in the salt/ snow states

one thing I looked into but never did was oil undercoating, if you are looking at a northern vehidle I would ask or inquire if this was ever done, and is is a good preventative measure

http://nhoilundercoating.com/Pkg_2_maintenance.html

[twiceblessed....nacole 433]

Thanks for feedback!

[LONE-STAR 370]

There are plenty of trucks in Texas. I have always bought from the same dealer. My sister on the other hand drives all over the state when she wants a new van or car. Driving to Texas seems to long to me. But check outhttp://www.texasdirectauto.com

[momof3kids-Yvonne 596]

Nacole,

Do you have a car dealer in your area that you trust? Could you work with them letting them know what it is you are looking for and how much you want to spend? They may be able to find a truck before it even goes on the market to the public.

[LONE-STAR 370]

Nacole,

Do you have a car dealer in your area that you trust? Could you work with them letting them know what it is you are looking for and how much you want to spend? They may be able to find a truck before it even goes on the market to the public.

This is very true. You can tell the dealer what you want and what you will pay and they can go to car auctions and find it. They can even look to see if what you want will be running at the next auction. I know in Texas the dealer I use goes to 1 auction in Houston and 1 in San Antonio every week.

[twiceblessed....nacole 433]

Nacole,

Do you have a car dealer in your area that you trust? Could you work with them letting them know what it is you are looking for and how much you want to spend? They may be able to find a truck before it even goes on the market to the public.

 

Kind-of.  We may have to go that way, if we don't find anything soon.  The one we were going to look at down in Pensacola... that one sold.   

[twiceblessed....nacole 433]

Too many miles??

 

http://www.mandmautosuperstore.com/view/JH1961/White-2006-Chevrolet-Silverado%202500-in-Lithia%20Springs-GA

[rtguy007 74]

Too many miles??

http://www.mandmautosuperstore.com/view/JH1961/White-2006-Chevrolet-Silverado 2500-in-Lithia Springs-GA

127k I would buy. I looked up the towing capacity and it seems low. Payload is fine (3160-4050lbs) but max tow I can find with the diesel is 9700 to 10500 depending on a few things. Unless what I am finding is inaccurate (and it is possible since this is google), I think there are better options out there. Excluding the payload rating, most new half tons can pull that weight if optioned correctly.

[twiceblessed....nacole 433]

Thanks for the feedback guys and gals (this is Tom). The one I really want is a 2013 Ram 2500 Laramie long bed (though this is the one option I am not really wanting is the long bed). It is fully loaded with all of the options and has about 45k miles. There was an accident down the whole side of the truck but does have a clean title and is being repaired. I am getting a list of what was done to it repair wise (mostly the body panels etc and one inside panel). No frame damage from what I am being told. They are asking $34k which is the perfect price range. Also have a 2011 F250 King Ranch and I believe it is a 1 owner (not 100%) on that yet. It has 88k miles and he is asking $35k. So far those are the best 2 trucks I have found. I am ready to do something far more fascinating with my life than look at a truck. I do love car shopping and I am in the industry but not when you can't find what you are looking for after about 4 weeks. 

[Travisma 1,317]

I've seen people post that you need a 2500 or 3500 Ram for heavier towing. We were driving alongside a 4 door Ram 1500 with a Hemi towing a large 5th wheel. We were in VA, which had some hills. Couldn't see what state he was from. Truck looked like it was handling the load w/o any issues. Wasn't squatting down, take off and stopping seemed smooth. From the headlight/ tail lights, it looked like a newer year.

[rtguy007 74]

I saw some jack wagon towing a 27" with a dakota with a v6 yesterday. It was a late 90s dakota. I have no idea how it was still running. My dad had one, and I did as well but with the 5.9 v8, and I would never have attempted that.

My 2013 ram 1500 was great with my TT. My issue was payload capacity. I was over and you could tell. From the outside it looked fine with a slight squat in the back. The front was looser with the TT hooked up vs not hooked up.

A lot of the issue is that you can't get a diesel in a half ton with the exception of ram. That 3.0 diesel makes no sense though. You get better towing capacity with the hemi and it is cheaper.

Tom, I am a dodge/ram guy but I would take that king ranch over the ram. If there wasn't a lot of damage to the ram that would be one thing but I would be hesitant to that kind of damage. Without seeing it personally it is hard to tell the full extent of the damages but replacing an inside door panel due to external damage is a pretty significant accident.

[bhall 115]

I've seen people post that you need a 2500 or 3500 Ram for heavier towing. We were driving alongside a 4 door Ram 1500 with a Hemi towing a large 5th wheel. We were in VA, which had some hills. Couldn't see what state he was from. Truck looked like it was handling the load w/o any issues. Wasn't squatting down, take off and stopping seemed smooth. From the headlight/ tail lights, it looked like a newer year.

Most likely airbags were installed to make it look level. Airbags do nothing for adding payload capacity. A 5er like that is most likely going to have a dry pin weight of 1800-2200 at the minimum. The largest payload for the 2015 rams in crew cab configuration i saw on the lots was about 1750 lbs. that guy was most likely over weight before him and his family ever got in the truck. I'd hate to think it but being a 1500 it probably had P rated 20" tires as well. He'll make the news one day.

Sent from my iPhone

[bhall 115]

Tom, i really need to snap a pic of the trucks hooked up to the trailers at work. The 2009 F250 extended cab 4x4 gasser with a payload of 2400lbs looks better with a trailer on it then the 2015 F250 King Ranch crew cab 4x4 diesel with a payload of 1800lbs. It squats so much It basically needs a weight distribution hitch to hook up to our empty enclosed car trailers. I don't know if the king ranches have diminished towing capacity but their payload is definitely diminished due to the extra options and amenities over the other trims.

Here is a shot of my 2015 chevy 2500 gasser with a bobcat loaded in the trailer. The back end of the truck is still sitting higher then the front. The suspension only traveled less then an inch.

Sent from my iPhone

[twiceblessed....nacole 433]

Guys thanks (Tom again). I don't have any question the 2500/250 gasser can pull what we have and payload isn't an issue since I don't put much back there and we have a TT not a 5er. Based on the gasser I could go to an F150 Ecoboost and get a 12k towing capacity and would probably be fine with most of my local towing. Our Armada can handle our TT on flat land. Our dilemma is when going up hill or should we do more trips to the mountains (ok they are hills on this part of the country) we would struggle. I personal would like the F150 Ecoboost for gas mileage and better riding when no pulling a trailer and not to mention a HECK OF A LOT EASIER TO FIND ONE. I am just struggling with if I go with an F150 Eco vs the diesel F250 would I be satisfied? That is the question. 

[twiceblessed....nacole 433]

One more thing with the F250 or 2500 gasser I hear the diesel does better on mpg.