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You might want to change the title of this thread. I thought it was another joke thread about Dave and his gas issues.

Dave's gas issues are a serious medical condition and we shouldn't poke fun.

I just saw a comercial for "Latoota", I thought it was about Dave

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I was a total Toyota Tundra guy but the dodge is bad a.. Outher than not holding the tonug weight as well better in every outher way.

Most guys I know with Tundras love them. Good to hear you like your Ram. I have been thinking about a 3500 Megacab for the room but I love my ford. 2 things that hold me back from the ram that my ford has that I really like is the keypad to unlock the truck on the drivers door and my tow mirrors are power extending and power folding.
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Dodge you don't need a key pad key fab in your pocket just open door my mirror is all power has auto wipers wifi auto lights and cool interior. Go check them out

They came a long way in the last 2 years o Ya the mileage is way way better

It's hard to leave 400 h.p. and as of 2015 the ford diesel is now 440 h.p.

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That's what happened to me I was picking up my son haveing service done on his car drove out with new truck

Nothing wrong with that I did pretty much the same thing. I was getting the oil changed in my superduty and started looking at a jeep wrangler they had on the lot. Went back the next day and traded in my wife's Tacoma in on it.

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My 01 dodge cummins is a great truck. It has tons of miles on it but keeps on going. It's a 4x4 straight shift. My father in law has a 07 f350. The interior and ride of the ford is way better than my dodge but that 6.0 power stroke is a pile. It stays broke down more than it stays running. I would like to have a 08-10 ford with a cummins conversion, that way I get the best of both worlds.

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My 01 dodge cummins is a great truck. It has tons of miles on it but keeps on going. It's a 4x4 straight shift. My father in law has a 07 f350. The interior and ride of the ford is way better than my dodge but that 6.0 power stroke is a pile. It stays broke down more than it stays running. I would like to have a 08-10 ford with a cummins conversion, that way I get the best of both worlds.

I agree with you on all of that. But the new power stroke is a great motor. But here is your truck. http://www.centurytrucks.com/Used/4WD_F350_FX4_5_9L_CUMMINS_DESTROKED_CONVERSION_DIESEL_LONG_BED_DRW_4X4/Grand%20Prairie_TX/LISTING-27787636/VehicleDetails.aspx?Dealer-1487
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That is a clean install. I like the new 6.7. Friend of mine has a nice f250 with one. It has had a tick in the motor since it was almost new and ford said it was common on the early 6.7 engines. It must not hurt anything cause it has 100,000 on it now and runs just fine, light tick and all.

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That is a clean install. I like the new 6.7. Friend of mine has a nice f250 with one. It has had a tick in the motor since it was almost new and ford said it was common on the early 6.7 engines. It must not hurt anything cause it has 100,000 on it now and runs just fine, light tick and all.

No tick in mine but I new some of the 11's had minor issues. Mine was built in August of 12 and the 11's came out in march of 10. So I gave it some time to get the bugs out.
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  • 4 weeks later...

Trailer weight question:   Was at an RV show today and found a couple of TT that listing "shipping weight" and then "hitch weight"... so in order t to figure out the dry weight of the empty camper...that would be the shipping weight plus hitch weight, is that correct?

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Trailer weight question:   Was at an RV show today and found a couple of TT that listing "shipping weight" and then "hitch weight"... so in order t to figure out the dry weight of the empty camper...that would be the shipping weight plus hitch weight, is that correct?

No just shipping weight hitch weight is included in shipping weight. But it does not include battery or lp tanks.

Daverene is correct.

Dry/shipping weights shouldn't be used to compare against your tow vehicles capacity; you need to extrapolate "real world" estimates from them. I have a tool that helps with that:

Estimate camper weights from dry weights

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You really should look at the gross weight of the trailer (the maximum it can weigh with all your "stuff", cause you will fill it up with stuff!

 

Then find out the Gross Combined Weight Rating allowable for your tow vehicle.

 

Then find out what your tow vehicle weighs full of people gas and more "stuff"

 

then subtract the loaded tow vehicle weight from Gross Combined Weight Rating

 

If the Gross weight of the trailer is less than what you have left over from a full tow vehicle, then you can tow the trailer.

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You really should look at the gross weight of the trailer (the maximum it can weigh with all your "stuff", cause you will fill it up with stuff!

 

Then find out the Gross Combined Weight Rating allowable for your tow vehicle.

 

Then find out what your tow vehicle weighs full of people gas and more "stuff"

 

then subtract the loaded tow vehicle weight from Gross Combined Weight Rating

 

If the Gross weight of the trailer is less than what you have left over from a full tow vehicle, then you can tow the trailer.

This is pretty accurate. The only problem is that until you get into 1-ton trucks and bigger, most people run out payload (aka carrying capacity) of their vehicle long before anything else in SUVs, 1/2-ton, and 3/4-ton trucks.

This carrying capacity has to include the people in it, anything in or on the truck (hitch, camping stuff, food, supplies, car seats, electronics, etc) as well as the camper's tongue or pin weight called hitch weight. For travel trailers, you want that tongue weight to be in the range of 10-15% of the camper's total weight for best towing (usually higher is better). For fifth wheels, this is sometimes as low as 16% but more commonly between 20-25%.

Using the GVWR can be tricky when you start talking about bigger fifth wheels. For instance, mine comes with a gross carrying capacity of 3,000+ pounds. We only get close to that we when are carrying fluids in the various tanks (fresh, blacks, and grays).

Here's another link (of mine) that can help folks figure this stuff out:

What can I tow?

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Thanks all... I know that our vehicle is rated at 9,100lbs and I understand that this includes everything (people/cargo inside of the vehicle and trailer with everything).  I also understand that you should really try to cap out at 80%. 

 

What I don't get...is why does the manufacturer break down the shipping weight from the hitch weight?  Here is what the website says, brand is Keystone:

 

Shipping Weight 6590

Carrying Capacity 1410

Hitch 690

Length 36' 10"

Height 10' 11"

Fresh Water 30

Waste Water 30

Gray Water 60

LPG 40

Tire Size ST225/75R15D
 

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Thanks all... I know that our vehicle is rated at 9,100lbs and I understand that this includes everything (people/cargo inside of the vehicle and trailer with everything).  I also understand that you should really try to cap out at 80%. 

 

What I don't get...is why does the manufacturer break down the shipping weight from the hitch weight?  Here is what the website says, brand is Keystone:

 

Shipping Weight 6590

Carrying Capacity 1410

Hitch 690

Length 36' 10"

Height 10' 11"

Fresh Water 30

Waste Water 30

Gray Water 60

LPG 40

Tire Size ST225/75R15D

 

In my super-uneducated opinion, the 80% cap is to keep people within their payload. If you are able to look at all of the numbers and stay under them all- I have no issue running right up to 100% and know plenty of people who tow over one or more. If you do it knowingly and within reason, lots of people do it safely.

The reason that both are listed is people are going to look at towing in 2 different ways. One is going to look at the gross weight and compare that against their vehicles towing capacity. Simple, no fuss, no muss. The other person is going to want to find the tongue (hitch) weight and compare it against their payload (your truck's gross weight minus it's actual ready to go down the road wright). This takes a little more work but generally is a more accurate picture of your towing capacity.

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Thanks all... I know that our vehicle is rated at 9,100lbs and I understand that this includes everything (people/cargo inside of the vehicle and trailer with everything).  I also understand that you should really try to cap out at 80%. 

 

What I don't get...is why does the manufacturer break down the shipping weight from the hitch weight?  Here is what the website says, brand is Keystone:

 

Shipping Weight 6590

Carrying Capacity 1410

Hitch 690

Length 36' 10"

Height 10' 11"

Fresh Water 30

Waste Water 30

Gray Water 60

LPG 40

Tire Size ST225/75R15D

 

 

The hitch weight is the tongue weight for a TT. It needs to be specified separately so you can install a hitch and receiver of adequate size to handle both loads (think gross trailer weight as pulling and hitch/tongue and downward load). Using a weight distribution hitch you will also need to add in the weight of any cargo behind the rear axle to determine size. My guess you are looking a 10K weight distribution hitch and receiver for those trailer specs. If you are talking about a fifth wheel I have no idea what to calculate.

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Example

My tt is a sunset trail 32 rl

Dry ship weight is 7680

Scale weight is 8498 loaded

I tow with 2014 dodge Laramie with no problems ( I did put on air bags) I never have water in tanks at all. Pulls just fine. With that being said would I do a cross country trip no I would not around florida no problem.

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I think the first thing you need to look at is the cargo capacity of your tow vehicle, as others mentioned you are going to hit that before you hit your 9100 pound max trailer mark.

To start look in the drivers door jamb for a sticker that looks something like this:

 

weight1.jpg

 

That is going to give you a close number on how much people, people's stuff, and hitch weight your tow vehicle can carry.

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I think the first thing you need to look at is the cargo capacity of your tow vehicle, as others mentioned you are going to hit that before you hit your 9100 pound max trailer mark.

To start look in the drivers door jamb for a sticker that looks something like this:

 

weight1.jpg

 

That is going to give you a close number on how much people, people's stuff, and hitch weight your tow vehicle can carry.

 

Yep... I get that (thanks though :) ).   It's the RV manufacture's breakdown on their weights that confused me....we're new to the RVing world (we've only had our hybrid, first camper, for a year now) and I had thought that when they listed the weight of a camper that this would include the trailer, hitch, everything (just not any liquids in your tanks, cargo, food...things like that).  

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The hitch weight is the tongue weight for a TT. It needs to be specified separately so you can install a hitch and receiver of adequate size to handle both loads (think gross trailer weight as pulling and hitch/tongue and downward load). Using a weight distribution hitch you will also need to add in the weight of any cargo behind the rear axle to determine size. My guess you are looking a 10K weight distribution hitch and receiver for those trailer specs. If you are talking about a fifth wheel I have no idea what to calculate.

 

 

Okay... so if the TT is 6590# and the hitch is 690#, then the dry weight of the TT is 7280.....is that right?   I start there and then add weight for cargo and passengers. ??

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